Buttonhole-machine.



G. J. DORMANDY. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1911.

Patented Jan. 16,1912.

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Z0"; in eases [720622 for mam G. J. DORMANDY., BUTTONHOLE MACHINE.

v APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1911. 1,01 5,01 1 Patented Jan. 16,1912.

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Witnesses: Inventor zihwta W caumsm Pl-ANOGRAPH C0., WASHINGTON. D, c.

G. J. DORMANDY. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JULY 26, 1911 1,015,01 1 Patented Jan. 16,1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

IJOLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH can. WASHINGTON. 1). c.

UNTTED STATES PATENT, OFFlOE.

GARRY J; DORMANDY, F TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO THE REEGE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

BUTTONHOLE-MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July 26, 1911.

Patented Jan. 16,1912.

Serial No. 640,623.

To all whom it may concern: 7

Be it known that I, GARRY J. DORMANDY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Troy, Rensselaer county, New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

Articles of apparel, such as laundried shirt collars and the like, are now being made with cut-out button-holes, instead of the well-known straight slotted holes heretofore used; that is, a punching or portion of the fabric, which may be of pearshaped, oval or other form, is cut away and removed before the stitching operation. To accomplish this, well-known button-hole machines have been adapted by removing the old straight cutter and substituting therefor a punch of the desired shape. In practice, however, it is found that the punch ing so cut out frequently drops back on the article so as to impinge on the hole, where it is caught by the line of stitching, thus spoiling the article.

My invention provides simple, durable and efiicient means for removing the punching or out out portion, so that it cannot interfere either with the stitching, or with a subsequent punching, operation.

Further objects of the invention, as well as the preferred means for carrying out the same, will appear in this specification, and be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings, which show an advantageous form of my device applied to a wellknown machine, Figures 1 and 2 are both right side elevations of a machine head with my invention applied thereto, in its two operative positions, many parts non-essential to the illustration being omitted; Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the punching cutting and removing parts; Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the same; Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a disengager; Fig. 6 is an elevation, and Fig. 7, a top plan, of a punch; Fig. 8 is a plan view of a toothed sector, shown in partial elevation in Fig. 9.

In the drawings, 11 designates a bed plate and 12 a work-arm mounted on said plate for forward and rearward movement by means not shown, its forward and rearward positions being shown in Figs. 1 and 2, respectively. In the arm 12 is mounted, for both vertical and rotary movement, a needle bar 13, carrying a stitching needle 14. The

bar 13 is rotated by a pinion 15, through which it is free to reciprocate, driven by a toothed sector 16 on a vertical shaft 17, also mounted for partial rotation in the arm 12. A cutter carrier 18 is pivotally secured to the arm 12 at 19, and may be forced down, by means not shown, to its operative position, see Fig. 1, and raised to the position of Fig. 2, by a spring 20. Movable with the arm 12 is a part 21 beneath the bed 11 and having a head 22, in which is detachably secured a block 23, which protrudes through a suitable slot in the bed 11. All these parts, as well as the clamp 24, thread holder 25, tension device 26, etc., are well-known in the art and form no part of my present invention, except as they may be slightly modified to cotiperate therewith.

The free end of the carrier 18 is split to form clamping portions, which are forced together by a clamping screw 31, the rear end of the lower face of these portions being dove-tailed to engage the correspondingly dove-tailed shank 32 of a punch 33, see Figs. 3, 6 and 7 The punch 33 has, in the present instance, an angular aperture 34 extending therethrough, and has a cutting edge 35 at its lower end. Through one side of the body portion 36 of the punch is a threaded opening 37, in which is a set-screw 38 for firmly holding an impaling needle 39, which passes centrally through the punch and extends below the cutting edge 35, Figs. 1, 2 and 3. Through a groove 40 in the front face of the carrier 18 and through the aperture 34 in the punch passes a pin or wire 41 having at its lower end an eye or loop 42 which freely embraces the needle 39. The upper end of the pin 41 passes through a guide plate 43 and is held by a set-screw 44 in a block 45, through which passes the free end of a flat spring 46, the rear end of which is secured in the carrier 18, Figs. 3, 4 and 5. On the lower face of the sector 16 is secured a curved,.depending cam 47, Figs. 8 and 9, the block 45 being located in the path of this cam, so as to be depressed thereby. A bent receiving tube 48, having an aperture 49, passes through the bed 11, Figs. 1 and 2.

The operation of this form of my device is as follows: When the machine is at rest, the work-arm 12, with all the parts carried thereby, including the part 21 beneath the bed, is advanced to its forward position. The operator then inserts the collar or other article and starts the machine. The forward end of the cutter lever 18 is depressed, bringing the edge of the punch 33 down on to the face of the block 23, which is preferably of soft steel or the like, and cutting out of the interposed fabric a pear-shaped punching, which has already been pierced or impaled by the needle 39, the position of the parts being as shown in Fig. 1. The punch is then raised by the movement of the lever 18, and the cut out portion of fabric or punching rises with it by reason of its impalement on the needle 39. The parts 12, 21, etc., are then retracted to the position of Fig. 2, when the stitching operation begins, the needle bar 13 and stitching needle 14 being carried around the edge of the butt0nhole by means of the pinion 15, acted on by the sector 16. At this time the impaling needle 39 is directly over the aperture 49 in the tube 48, see Fig. 2. As the sector 16 swings the depending cam 47 passes over and depresses the block 45, thus forcing down pin 41, the loop 42, which embraces the needle 39 above the punching impaled thereon, thereby acting to force the punching off the needle downwardly, as shown in dotted lines, Fig. 2, so that it drops into the aperture 49 in the tube 48. As the cam 47 passes the block 45, see Fig. 2, the block is raised by the spring 46 to its normal, inoperative position. The tube 48 may lead to any convenient receptacle, or may simply drop the punchings on the work-bench or on the oil tray placed thereon.

It will be understood that the mechanical form of the various features of my device; the means for engaging and raising the punching, the means for discharging the punching from such engaging means, and, where this is used, the means for receiving and carrying away the punching; may and with different machines, necessarily must, vary widely from the needle, cam-actuated pin and tube shown.

Vhat I claim is:

1. In a button-hole machine, a hollow punch for cutting out a punching from the fabric; means within said punch for impaling and raising such punching; and means also within said punch for disengaging such punching from said impaling means.

2. In a button-hole machine, a hollow punch for cutting out a punching from the fabric; an impaling needle within said punch for impaling and raising such punching; and vertically movable means also within said punch for disengaging such punching from said needle.

3. In a button-hole machine, a hollow punch for cutting out a punching from the fabric; an impaling needle within said punch for impaling and raising such punching; and a vertically movable loop embracing said needle for disengaging such punching therefrom.

GARRY J. DORMANDY.

Vitnesses Gno. L. COOPER, B. H. DAVRY.

copies'of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C. 

